PDRN and Viral Skincare Actives Explained (UK 2026)
Short answer: PDRN is a DNA-derived ingredient, traditionally from salmon, studied mainly for wound healing and injected skin treatments. In serums and masks it is best seen as a hydrating extra, not a proven anti-ageing fix; sunscreen and a good moisturiser still matter more.
Scroll through UK beauty videos in 2026 and you will see the same handful of "viral actives" again and again: PDRN, salmon DNA, peptides, exosomes, glycolic acid, exfoliating pads and niacinamide. Some have decent evidence behind them; others are newer to cosmetics than their marketing suggests. This guide explains what each one is, what the research does and does not show, how to combine them without irritating your skin, and which products from our range are worth trying if you are curious. If you are building a routine from scratch, start with our Korean skincare routine guide first.
Viral skincare actives at a glance
| Active | What it is | What the evidence suggests | Who might try it | Go easy if… |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PDRN (salmon DNA) | Fragments of DNA, traditionally from salmon or trout | Studied mostly as injections and in wound healing; topical cosmetic evidence is limited | Dry, tired-looking or dehydrated skin | You have a fish allergy (check the source) |
| Peptides (including copper peptides) | Short chains of amino acids | Popular in anti-ageing products; results vary by peptide and formula | Anyone wanting a gentle anti-ageing step | Combining with many strong acids |
| Niacinamide | A form of vitamin B3 | Well established in skincare; widely used for oily and uneven-looking skin | Oily, combination, blemish-prone skin | Using very high strengths on sensitive skin |
| AHAs and BHAs (glycolic, salicylic and others) | Chemical exfoliants | Smooth texture by loosening dead skin cells | Rough texture, congested pores | Your skin is sensitive, or you skip sunscreen |
| Exosomes and spicules | Cell-derived particles; tiny needle-like sponge fragments | Very new in cosmetics; little independent evidence | Experienced skincare users only | Your skin stings or reacts easily |
What is PDRN?
PDRN stands for polydeoxyribonucleotide – a mixture of DNA fragments. A 2021 review in Pharmaceuticals describes it as "a DNA-derived drug" made from the sperm of salmon trout or chum salmon, and explains that it acts on adenosine A2A receptors, a pathway involved in tissue repair (PDRN and skin wound healing review). That is why it has been used in medicine for wound and tissue healing, and why Korean aesthetic clinics have used injectable versions for years.
Cosmetic brands have now put PDRN into serums, creams, toner pads and gel masks, often labelled "salmon DNA". It is worth being clear about what that means and what it does not.
Does PDRN skincare actually work?
The honest answer is: we do not know much yet about PDRN in creams and serums. A 2026 systematic review in Cureus looked at randomised trials of polynucleotides and PDRN for skin rejuvenation, scar prevention and wound healing (systematic review of randomised trials). It found improvements in wrinkle-related measures, but the evidence came from only seven trials with 183 participants, and the skin rejuvenation studies used injections or needle-free jet delivery rather than creams. The authors describe the evidence as limited by small samples and varied methods, and note there is no standard PDRN preparation.
A large molecule like DNA does not pass easily into intact skin, so a PDRN serum is most likely doing what good serums do anyway: hydrating the surface and making skin look plumper and more comfortable while you use it. That can be worthwhile – just keep your expectations realistic and be wary of before-and-after claims.
One more nuance: some brands now use DNA from plants or other sources and still call it PDRN. VT Cosmetics, for example, describes the PDRN in its essence as plant-based, from wild ginseng. The research above is on salmon-derived PDRN, so those vegan versions are not directly covered by it.
PDRN products worth trying
If you want to try the trend, pick one PDRN product and use it consistently for a few weeks rather than layering several.
- medicube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum 30 ml – salmon PDRN with peptides, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide; one of the best-known viral versions.
- COSRX 5 PDRN Collagen Serum – a large 100 ml bottle blending several PDRN sources with low-molecular-weight collagen.
- VT COSMETICS PDRN 100 Essence – a fragrance-free essence using plant-derived PDRN, for those avoiding fish-derived ingredients.
- medicube Jelly Gel Mask with Salmon DNA PDRN (4-pack) – the hydrating jelly mask behind many of the viral videos; an easy treat rather than a daily step.
- Dr.Althea PDRN Reju 5000 Cream – a lightweight moisturiser for those who would rather get PDRN in their cream step.
- Abib PDRN Volume Fill-It Booster Cream – a small 30 ml tube for targeted use.
If you have a fish allergy, check whether the PDRN in a product comes from salmon before using it, and ask a pharmacist if you are unsure. You can compare more formulas in our serums collection or see the full medicube range.
The other viral actives, explained
Peptides and copper peptides
Peptides are short chains of amino acids and appear in many anti-ageing products. Copper peptides are a popular variety; COSRX Blue Copper Peptide Bakuchiol Serum pairs them with bakuchiol, a plant ingredient often described as a gentler alternative to retinol. Peptide serums are generally well tolerated, which makes them a reasonable first "active" for people with sensitive skin.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is one of the most widely used skincare ingredients and is popular for oily skin, enlarged-looking pores and uneven tone. The NHS acne page lists niacinamide among the options a pharmacist may suggest for spots. Higher strengths are not always better: COSRX Niacinamide 15% Serum is a strong formula, so introduce it every other day at first if your skin is sensitive.
Exfoliating pads, glycolic acid and other acids
Pre-soaked toner pads with AHAs (such as glycolic or citric acid) or BHAs (such as salicylic acid or willow bark) have become one of the most talked-about skincare formats. They work by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, which can leave skin feeling smoother. medicube Zero Pore Pad 2.0 is a typical example. Use acid pads two or three evenings a week to start, not every day, and do not use them on the same night as a retinoid or a spicule product. Freshly exfoliated skin needs good sun protection: the British Association of Dermatologists recommends SPF 30 or above with 4 or 5-star UVA protection, and our SPF and UVA guide explains the labels.
Exosomes and spicule "microneedle" serums
Exosome skincare and spicule serums (which contain tiny needle-like fragments from marine sponges and often cause a prickling feeling) are the newest trends. Independent evidence for what they do in a cosmetic product is thin, and spicules can irritate. We would leave these until the rest of your routine is settled, avoid them on broken, sunburnt or very sensitive skin, and stop if they cause lasting redness.
How to combine actives without irritation
- One new product at a time. Wait at least a week before adding another, so you know what is causing any reaction.
- Patch test. Try a new product on a small area, such as along the jawline, for a few days first.
- Separate the strong ones. Keep acids, retinoids and spicules on different nights.
- Hydrators go anywhere. PDRN, peptide and hyaluronic serums are generally easy to pair with other steps.
- Moisturise and protect. Finish with moisturiser at night and sunscreen every morning, whatever actives you use.
- Know when to stop. Burning, swelling or a rash means stop using the product. See a pharmacist or GP if it does not settle.
How we chose
We did not test products on our own skin. We read the published research on PDRN – including the systematic review and wound-healing review linked above – and UK health guidance on spots and sun protection, then chose products from our range that represent each trend clearly, favouring fragrance-free and well-established brands. We avoided medicines, products sold to treat medical conditions and skin-lightening claims, and we have not repeated brand claims we could not check. Every product linked here was live on our site when we published.
Viral actives checklist
- Treat PDRN as a hydrating extra, not a replacement for clinical treatment.
- Pick one new active at a time and give it four to six weeks.
- Check the PDRN source if you have a fish allergy or prefer vegan products.
- Use acids and spicules sparingly and never on the same night.
- Wear SPF 30 or higher every day, especially when exfoliating.
- Free UK delivery and free 30-day returns apply to every order.
Frequently asked questions
What is PDRN in skincare?
PDRN, or polydeoxyribonucleotide, is a mixture of DNA fragments traditionally taken from salmon or trout. It has been studied in medicine for wound healing and is now added to serums, creams and masks, often labelled salmon DNA.
Does PDRN skincare really work?
The evidence for PDRN in creams and serums is limited. A 2026 systematic review found improvements in wrinkle measures, but the trials were small and the skin rejuvenation studies used injections, not topical products. In a serum it mainly acts as a hydrating ingredient.
Is PDRN suitable for vegans or people with a fish allergy?
Most PDRN comes from salmon, so it is not vegan and may not suit people with a fish allergy. Some brands use plant-derived DNA instead, such as VT Cosmetics, which describes its PDRN as coming from wild ginseng. Check the label and ask a pharmacist if unsure.
Can I use PDRN with niacinamide or retinol?
PDRN serums are mainly hydrating, so they usually sit comfortably alongside other steps. Introduce one new product at a time and keep strong actives such as acids, retinoids and spicule serums on separate nights.
Are exfoliating toner pads safe to use every day?
Pads containing AHAs or BHAs can irritate if used too often. Start with two or three evenings a week, avoid using them on the same night as retinoids or spicule products, and wear sunscreen every morning.
What are spicule or microneedle serums?
Spicule serums contain tiny needle-like fragments from marine sponges that create a prickling feeling on the skin. Independent evidence on what they do is limited and they can irritate, so avoid them on sensitive, broken or sunburnt skin.
